As you exit the ferry from Cancun on Isla Mujeres, stay calm, keep your expectations in check, connect with the tranquility of the gulf (at that point you are in the Gulf of Mexico) and head for Lancheros restaurant, the first door north (if they had doors) of the ferry pier. Fantastic ceviche (which earlier that morning was still swimming), awaits you. Sitting at waters edge, actually under a tent, on the fine, almost white sand that covers this island (and never gets hot under your feet) you pause to reflect on all the things that you are not going to do on this vacation—which is the point—RELAX.

Hotel Rocamar is straight east, up the cobble stone street, a couple of blocks from the ferry and provides clean, very friendly accommodations for a reasonable rate– www.rocamar-hotel.com. This newly remodeled hotel is simple, (actually sparce) yet well designed and sits at the edge of the Caribbean providing a constant breeze and the melodious sound of pounding surf 24/7. Two young Mexican women, Maria and Kin, run this little jewel (they both speak excellent English). Tell them you are Aging But Dangerous (whatever your age) and you will receive special treats. Always ask them about any discounts that might be available; the ABD connection might help there also. Hotel Secreto trumps the high end list–owned by a Bostonian it exudes class and design and at this point is beyond my budget .

 Tourist attractions do exist; Tortugranja Turtle Farm breeds sea turtles to reintroduce into the “wild”, Garrafon Park has a zip line, sea kayaking and miscellaneous sea life encounters. At the southern most tip of the island is Punta Sur which boasts a spectacular walking path where you can stand at the eastern most point in all of Mexico while feeding giant iguanas. Scuba diving trips to a cave (3 miles off shore and 70 feet down) to see sharks’ sleeping with their eyes open (scarry), or just snorkeling intrigues many. My friend Lucy paid for a swimming photo-op with a 5 ft.+ nurse shark named Monica Lewinski—the scariest thing it did was to spit all over her when she tried to kiss it.

 Considering the size of this small island, the quality and abundance of excellent food is amazing. Finding a glass of decent wine was perplexing until I found Olivia’s, (which also has outstanding Moroccan cuisine). Fish tacos at Jax, Hungarian potatoes at Qubano (to die for), tuna carpacio with avocado and fried cheese at Grill L’Argentina (on the corner with the scorpions in the giant Tequila bottles), corn soup at The Patio—and I thought I might be able to shed a couple of lbs.—forget it. This list seems endless and I am not exaggerating—try to find a bad meal—I dare you.

 Walking is the main mode of transportation and should you decide to “cab it” just hail your own, they are prevelant—the hotel calling for you will increase your fare.  Comcast and AT&T phones work well and have special packages for MX—check yours before you come.

 Rainy days might tempt you to go to the Naval base and visit the PX–no I’m not kidding–( it’s about the size of a 7-11). We found an intriguing hair product called Gorilla Snott (moco de Gorila), with an appropriately disgusting graphic on the jar, a great gift for grandkids. (They will be totally grossed out.) Typical Mexican tourists shops line many of the streets; silver is a big commodity—most owners however are polite and respectful of your “personal space”.

“Upscale” is rare to non existent on Isla Mujeres, so just chill, stay in the moment and make that gratitude list that is so overdue–because if you are on Isla, there is much for which to be greatful. CSB